茶의 製茶方法 중 醱酵方法에 관한 比較 硏究

Abstract

時代의 흐름에 따라 함께 變化 發展해 온 茶는, 現代에 들어와 well-being의 한 종류로 觀心이 集中 增加되어 茶를 즐기는 사람들이 漸次的으로 늘어나는 趨勢이다. 韓國에서도 多樣한 茶類에 대한 情報가 퍼지고, 中國의 醱酵茶類가 알려지면서 점차 韓國의 醱酵茶에 대한 觀心도 커지게 되었다. 本 硏究者는 이미 알려진 醱酵라는 用語의 正確한 定立에 대한 必要性을 느끼게 되었고, 過去의 醱酵茶 製茶方法이 現在는 어떻게 變化되어 製茶되는지를 살펴보고, 그 差異를 考察 해 보고자 하였다. 本 論文에서는 우리 醱酵茶의 種類와 製茶方法이 비교적 많이 記錄된 金明培의 ‘茶道學’, 鄭英善의 ‘韓國 茶文化’, 朴暎熙의 ‘東茶正統考’를 中心으로 하여, 朝鮮時代의 醱酵茶들에 대한 考察을 통해 醱酵茶 製茶方法을 整理하여, 이를 分類하고 體系化한 후, 現在 國內의 河東郡 一帶에서 生産되는 製品 중에서 醱酵茶 製茶方法을 文獻調査와 面接調査를 하여 朝鮮時代의 製茶方法과의 差異를 比較 하였다. 또한 우리 醱酵茶의 特徵에 대해서 考察하여 現在 茶 生産에 있어서의 發展 方向을 提示하였다. 韓國에서의 醱酵茶의 種類를 朝鮮時代와 現代로 나누어 살펴본 주요 結果의 內容을 要約하면 다음과 같다. 1. 朝鮮時代의 醱酵茶는 醱酵方法에 따라 크게 日晒醱酵茶, 찌거나 덖은 후 醱酵하는 茶, 덩이형태의 차로 나누어진다. 2. 現在의 醱酵茶는 河東郡 一帶만 文獻調査와 面接調査를 한 結果, 그 종류는 中醱酵以上의 日晒醱酵茶와 弱醱酵茶로 다양하지 않지만, 醱酵茶의 기본적인 製茶方法이 定立되는 初期段階라 할 수 있다. 3. 朝鮮時代의 醱酵茶와 中國의 醱酵茶를 크게 3가지로 나누어 比較한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 朝鮮時代의 日晒醱酵茶는 中國의 白茶와 紅茶의 製茶方法과의 比較에서는 세 가지 方法 모두 열을 이용하는 殺靑이라는 過程이 없는 醱酵茶類로서, 시들이기와 醱酵에서 불필요한 부분의 水分을 除去함으로써 醱酵에 필요한 濕氣와 溫度의 調節로써 醱酵를 하는 茶로써, 日晒醱酵茶 製茶方法은 中國의 白茶製茶方法에서 紅茶製茶方法으로 變化하였다. 둘째, 朝鮮時代의 찌거나 덖은 후 발효하는 茶와 中國 黃茶의 製茶方法과 比較 해 보면, 朝鮮時代는 시들이기만으로 찻잎의 醱酵를 決定하고, 많은 醱酵를 막기 위해 솥에 덖는 과정을 여러 번 한 반면, 中國은 悶黃 즉 醱酵 過程을 거치기 전에 덖는 과정이 있다. 셋째, 朝鮮時代의 덩이형태의 茶는 中國의 後醱酵 덩이차와 거의 비슷하지만, 덩이형태의 차를 지역마다 부르던 名稱에 差異가 난다. 4. 朝鮮時代와 現在의 製茶方法과 比較 한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 日晒醱酵茶의 製茶方法은 더 복잡해졌으며, 朝鮮時代에는 주로 햇빛에서 시들이기를 하였으나, 現在에는 햇빛과 실내인 그늘로 나눠 各各의 特性을 살리고 있고, 햇빛에서 시들이기를 한 茶의 湯色이 그늘에서 시들이기를 한 것보다 밝고 鮮明하다. 그리고 朝鮮時代에는 日晒醱酵茶에서는 사용하지 않던 찻잎의 띄우기가 새로이 登場하였다. 둘째, 朝鮮時代의 찌거나 덖은 후 醱酵하는 茶와 現在의 弱醱酵茶를 比較해보면, 朝鮮時代는 中國의 黃茶 製茶方法과 비슷하게 띄우기라는 醱酵의 過程이 있었으나, 現在에는 비교적 醱酵度가 낮은 中國의 靑茶 製茶方法이 應用되며 醱酵程度가 弱하다. 셋째, 덩이형태의 차를 비교해 보면, 큰 차이를 찾을 수 가 없다. 5. 現在의 醱酵茶와 中國의 醱酵茶를 比較 한 結果는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 日晒醱酵茶와 中國의 紅茶製茶方法과 比較하면, 위의 두 方法은 殺靑이라는 過程이 없는 醱酵茶이지만, 최근 들어 韓國에서는 마무리 때에 열을 가하는 새로운 방법이 이용된다. 둘째, 現在의 弱醱酵茶는 中國의 靑茶와 製茶方法을 比較한 결과, 韓國의 弱醱酵茶의 特徵은 솥에서 두 번의 덖음을 이용하는 것이고, 中國은 시들이기와 乾燥를 많이 함으로 自然的인 水分 蒸發을 하면서 醱酵를 하게 되므로 醱酵度는 다양하게 調節을 할 수 있다. 우리 傳統茶의 製茶方法에서의 큰 特徵은, 우선 찻잎의 品種과 特性이 다르고, 差異는 바로 ‘띄우기’라는 것이다. 우리 民族은 飮食에서의 ‘띄우기’를 茶에 應用을 하였다. 띄우기를 이용한 飮食은 一定期間 貯藏을 할 수 있으며, 時間이 지날수록 熟成이 되어 味의 變化를 느끼게 된다. 마지막으로, 무엇보다 茶農家들은 우리 茶葉의 特性에 적합한 醱酵의 製茶方法들을 應用, 硏究· 開發하여 韓國의 뛰어난 찻잎의 特徵을 잘 살펴서, 찻잎에 맞는 製茶方法의 硏究가 先行되어야 할 것이라 思料되며, 앞으로도 꾸준한 製茶方法의 硏究· 開發의 勞力만이 앞으로의 우리 茶 産業에서는 꼭 필요한 부분임을 다시 한 번 밝히고자 한다.|Tea has been change and developed as time goes by and nowadays, interest in tea has been increased as a part of well-being trend, so the number of people who enjoy tea has been gradually increased. In Korea, as information about various types of teas is speeded, and Chinese fermented-tea is known, the interest in Korean fermented-tea has gradually got bigger. This researcher felt the necessary of correct direction of an already known term.ferment, and is going to find how the traditional tea manufacturing method has change until now, and is going to consider the difference. This thesis is referring to on Science of tea-ceremony(written by Kim Myungbae), Korean tea culture(written by Jung Youngsun), Dongdajungtong-go(written by Park Younghee), which are studies including comparatively many kinds of Korean fermented-tea and tea manufacturing method, arrange the manufacturing method of fermented tea through consideration on fermented teas in Joseon Age, classify and systemize them, and then compares the differences between ancient fermented-tea manufacturing method and present fermented-tea manufacturing method through record studies and interviews, and consider the characteristic of Korean fermented tea and then finally suggests the way to go of present tea manufacture. Followings are the summaries of findings of studying which sought kinds of Korean fermented-tea by dividing into Joseon dynasty and the present age. 1. Fermented-tea is mainly classified into Sun-drying fermented tea, after steaming or parching fermented-tea and Lump types of tea. 2. Present fermented tea in Korea is . record study and interview are conducted in Hadong Goon(Korean name of county) region . that it has not that various kinds . only medium fermented teas and fully fermented teas , but common thing we can find is that fundamental tea manufacturing method has been being settled. 3. This thesis made comparison between fermented tea in Joseon dynasty age and Chinese fermented tea and studied on them by classifying into three sections. First, when comparing Sun-drying tea in Joseon dynasty age with the tea manufacturing method of Chinese White tea and Black tea, all of them are fermented teas which have no ‘killing blue light’process by using heat, and ferment through adjusting needed moisture and temperature by eliminating water of unnecessary part through withering and fermenting. The tea manufacturing method of Sun-drying tea in Joseon dynasty age has changed into that of Chinese White tea, and then has changed into Chinese black tea’s one. Second, when comparing after steaming or parching fermented-tea with tea manufacturing method of Chinese Yellow tea, in Joseon age, determined fermentation of tea leaves only by withering parch many times in order to prevent too much fermentation. On the other hand, Chinese Yellow tea has parching process before Minhwang .a kind of fermentation process, this also somehow prevent an oxidizing enzyme to certain degree, therefore there is a process which people slowly can see the change of beauty even after the tea is completely manufactured. Third, Lump type of tea in Joseon dynasty age is mostly similar with Chinese Post-fermented Lump tea, the brightness are different. 4. This thesis compares the tea manufacturing method of Joseon dynasty age and now and considers them. First, the manufacturing method of Sun-drying fermented tea has been more complicated, In the Josoen dynasty age, withering in the son was common, but now withering take place in the sun and shadow depends on the feature of them respectively, the color of tea which withered in the sun is brighter and more distinct than one which withered in shadow. In addition, ferment (Tuiugi) has been newly appeared, which not existed in Joseon age. Second, there are findings in comparison of after steaming or parching fermented-tea in Joseon dynasty age and light fermented tea. There was fermentation process called ‘ferment (Tuiugi)’ which is similar with Chinese yellow tea manufacturing method, but now Chinese Blue tea manufacturing method is applied, which has low degree of fermentation. Third, when it comes to comparison in lump types of teas, there is no big difference. Koreahas been turning the manufacturing method of Lump tea written in Dakyoung from Yuk-wu to good account, and recently is in the step of developing them as a local specialty. 5. This thesis made comparison between present fermented-tea and Chinese fermented-tea and studied on them. First, when comparing tea manufacture methods of Sun-drying fermented-tea and Chinese Black tea, both are fermented teas which have no ‘killing blue light’ process, but recently a new method is used, which heat at the last step. Second, there are findings gained from comparison between the tea manufacturing method of Light fermented tea and Chinese Yellow tea. While the characteristic of Korean Light fermented tea is conducting two times of parching in a pot, Chinese Yellow tea conduct many times of withering and drying, so fermented by natural evaporation and the degree of fermentation could be controlled in various ways. While Korean tea culture value beauty above flavor, Chinese tea culture value both of them. Therefore, flavoring process is essential in Chinese tea manufacturing method. The most important thing of manufacturing fermented-tea is that understanding the features of tea leaves and deciding appropriate degree of evaporation and method of tea manufacture first. Third, the most remarkable point in comparison between tea manufacturing method of present Light fermented-tea and that of Blue-tea are that the differences of species and feature of tea leaves and ‘fermenting’in terms of tea manufacture method. Korean ancestors apply ‘fermenting’ in cooking to tea manufacture. Fermented foods are can be stored within a certain period of time, are being precocious as time goes by, so people can feel beauty of alteration. Based on 5 findings above, this study suggests a direction of progress. Above all, tea manufacturers should apply, study and develop appropriate fermented tea manufacturing methods for characteristic of Korean tea leaves, fully understand the excellent characteristic of Korean tea leaves, and study on tea manufacture method suitable for tea leaves should be preceded. This thesis emphasizes that unremiting efforts to study and development of tea manufacturing method are the only essential parts in Korean tea industry.