의류산업 활성화를 위한 제품 디자인 연구

Abstract

Since 1960's, the clothing industry of Korea, which is the foundational industry sector of the easy stage of korean economic development, has been developed with the cheap and abundant labor power by focusing on textile industry. From 1975, the ready-made clothe industry of large enterprises brought the new era of Korean clothing industry. Taking the countenance of the clothing industry in 1980's when the social advance of woman extended, the clothing market reaches safe and sound to the high growth industry with 20 trillion won scale and its yearly average ratio 17%. However, most Korean small and medium enterprises are accustomed to OEM style and have difficulties in advancing to the high value added industry because they are lacking in design development ability. Therefore, developing design becomes the most urgent matter to small and medium enterprises. Hereupon, this research made a study of design for small and medium enterprises in order to manufacture goods under participating the technical education program of Seoul Small and Medium Business Administration 2006. The objective of the research is observing the feature and a present condition of clothing industry. Also, it presents plans which are able to activate the clothing industry that is stagnated by the open-door policy of a circulation market. With the support of design which is the kernel of creating the high value added, this research can help small and medium enterprises to become competitive brands. Moreover, the design concept is pruducing goods and researching 4 different kinds of themes with retro fashion which is the most popular in 2000's. So to speak, the purposes of this research are looking into characteristics and the present condition of small and medium enterprises which take most possession of the clothing industry and supporting design manufacture which is the kernel of creating high value added with information of trends in fashon in order to give an opportunity of growing up as a competitive brand without OEM style. The research scope is the concentrated view of present condition and the feature of domestic clothing industry in 2000's. After analyzing photograph data from 1960's until 2007 and the trend tendency of the year 2007 with S/S street fashion, the research designed goods. The research content is as follows. First, present condition of domestic clothing industry is that 88.3% of clothing enterprises are small and medium enterprises but they play important roles in national economy with 15.3% of enterprises, 10.5% of employment and 4.9% of the amount of production. In 2005, the export stayed at 14 billion dollars and it diminished but the balance of trade recorded 7.2 billion dollars in the black. With this international phase, the clothing industry becomes one of the biggest job creating industry and the pioneer role of domestic economic growth. However, we recognize the clothing industry as the decaying one because the rise of labor cost makes many manufacturing plants move to developing countries. Second, the feature of domestic clothing industry which depends in subcontract production is the difficulty of creating high value added. Also, because the facility is falling behind and the needlework level is weak, domestic clothing industry has the technical level of 80% degree of advanced nation and the design level whose benefit rate of high value added is 60%. Furthermore, the clothing relation workers are getting old and the transfer of technique is becoming a problem. It is pretty hard to secure the productive base and a high-class manpower of clothing industry because of the cavity phenomenon. Third, to activate domestic clothing industry, an educational-industrial complex should train not only global designers but also experts on fashion and bring up the world-wide brand that will be able to compete with the brand of advanced nations. Also, the modernization of the productive base which is stabilized and facility is needed and the export should be enlarged by strengthening the support for clothing industry. Fourth, after analyzing trend from the collection photograph for a design research, I could find the modernism in 1960's, Hippie/Punk Look in 1970's, Androgenous Look or the eclecticism of the Orient and the Occident in 1980's, Ecology Look in 1990's and finally the modernism or Grungy, Glam and Ecology Look that are repeated and crossed in 2000's In this tendencies, We could see the minimal coat based on modernism and one-pieces dress and long knit ware of ecological look style and oversize fashion of grunge and glam look in the 2007 S/S street fashion. Fifth, 07/08's tendency is that the decoration controlled and color are appearing as mega trend with minimal look appearances. It will popular that oval silhouette having volume feeling with use of the various detail. 1960's pop art,op art are becoming popular as new trend in these days. So demand of design of a geometrical pattern will increase. Vintage metal color which is tone down will be popular in not only clothing but also trifling article(bag, shoes, accessories). Because metal colors are popular. Sixth, Design concept for small and medium enterprise is the retro fashion which are repeated most popular in 2000's. Retro fashion are divide into 4 themes. There are Neo-minimal, Optical modern, New-grunge, and Romantic carrier respectively. Research target is limiting to 20-30 year old woman which are consuming clothes increasingly every year. Result of design research of 4 themes for small and medium enterprise as follow. First, Neo-minimal is the style which shows a womanly beauty on the basis of natural and comfortable. It had the minimal of simple and hard style get the sleeve having a volume feeling and shirring. I designed a pieces of the trapeze style jacket and a pieces of the lap slacks suite and a pieces of the kimono style drop shoulder coat and a pieces of high neck line blouse and slacks which have the two-toned textile colored by silver. Second, Optical modern was popular design style in 1960's. This design is modernness and simple and refined style because of color feeling displayed by a geometrical pattern. I designed two pieces of one-pieces dress and a pieces of chil-bu slack and a pieces of sleeve suite and a pieces of cowl neckline blouse and produced designed goods. Third, New Grunge gets a motive from the nature raising in revolt against the civilization. I designed a pieces of two-pieces dress made of a fern and a pieces of cardigan made of knit material and a shirt blouse of checking pattern and a pieces of bell bottom slack dress and produced designed goods. Fourth, Romantic career, Reflecting professional women's wishes which is the dream of the escape of hard job life, I designed 3 kind of Romantic career good. Jacket of horizontal sleeve applied abundant shirring and a pieces of volume one-piece dress, with considered the visitation of performing art or invitation. And a pieces of romantic one-piece dress applied flounce with the natural drapery. And chin blouse applied sense and refined wrinkle and pleat skirt suite As follow to research, The design for supporting small and medium enterprise was divided with 4 themes and It produced 20 goods. Like this supporting of design can compete with the foreign brands by competitive power of the small and medium enterprise, and can invest employment with the profits caused by cutting down the cost of production. Therefore, I expect that it will be able to grow with their own brand having their own design without imitation design and OEM style. I think that the research will be needed to study sale amount of goods, marketing and displaying for maximum sales increasing, Because Only process for design of goods was advanced on this research. On the basis of this research, I wish that the research which improves competitive brand power of small and medium enterprise is studying continuously and becoming the world-wide brand.