전통 염색 힐(힐) 기법에 관한 연구

Abstract

Tradition gives consistency and continuity to the whole of culture as value system to have historical life. Thus, method and technique of traditional dyeing will have to be succeeded and developed by applying in life. So, this study aims at examining Kyo Hil, Hyup Hil, and Nap Hil centering around he work which appeared in modern time with the historical study for Hil technique to be the origin of pattern dyeing out of traditional natural dyeing and at groping for future application scheme. As for concrete method, this researcher examined history and meaning of natural dyeing, feature and classification attendant on dyestuffs, symbolical nature of color centering around the dorctrine of the five natural elements of positive and negative and Obang color, and origin nd meaning of Hil technique and studied application scheme in modern time. This findings is as follows: First, this researcher studied the color of dress and its ornaments which appeared the dress and its ornaments of our country from ancient time to modern time through literature, so as to understand the feature of traditional natural dyeing. Period of three states is the period that brilliant race culture was achieved, as foreign culture of China and India etc. was transmitted to specific culture. Then, culture of dyeing and weaving formed considerable level with the development of technology. Textile was woven with diverse colored threads, and pattern dyeing by resisting dyeing method appeared, and culture of dyeing and weaving which developed to a high degree such as embroidering with colored thread etc. showed. In this period, colorful colors such as Ja, Chung, Kang, Bi, and Hwang etc. were used on dress, so as to distinguish social position or indicate class. In Koryo period, in the same way as the period of three states, resisting dyeing and printing dyeing as well dip-dyeing were made. And, noble and illustrious official women wore the dress of red and yellow joyfully. So, system of red and yellow became conspicuous than former period. It can be seen that red system such as Dan and Bi etc. was used much after purple color in official uniform also. In Choson period, diverse middle color developed, as dyeing technique to use dip-dyeing technique developed. Pattern dyeing to be based on Hil dyeing maintained life for only the export goods of foreign country, and sealing gold to stamp gold was used mainly. And, in case of expressing pattern on cloth, expression was made with embroidery or gold pressing or weaving. In the time of flowering, as chemical dyestuffs to be able to dye easily started to rise rapidly than natural dyestuffs to require complex dyeing course and much time by the invention of synthetic dyestuffs. Thus, natural dyestuffs was not used almost. As for natural dyeing, interest is rising up to now after 1970s with the effect as healthful functional product by drug action to be generated from natural dyestuffs and the effect of work of dyeing artisans, cultural value, and educational value to heighten environment consciousness through quest for nature etc. as well as value as industry to be intimate to environment. Second, as for the classification of color tone by natural dyestuffs, classification into vegetable, animal and mineral coloring matter may be made in accordance with the origin of dyestuffs. and, as for the classifiction of color tone by mordant, study was made by classifying into monochrome dyestuffs and multicolored dyestuffs. As for the classification by the origin of dyestuffs, vegetable dyestuffs is used for dyeing by extracting coloring matter included in leaf, flower, fruit, bark, heartwood, and root etc. of plant which grew in nature, and animal dyestuffs means dyestuffs to be able to obtained from blood of animal, shell kind, and worm etc. And, all are many colored dyestuffs. Raw material of mineral dyestuffs is obtained from stone or metal that coloring matter is included. As for the classification of color tone by mordant, monogenetic colors means that only the color tone of one system is dyed, and polygenetic colors means that dyeing is possible with diverse colors through previous mordanting or post mordanting by using proper mordant regardless of the color tone of coloring matter which is included in dyeing material. Third, consciousness structure of our race is outlook on the universe of five natural elements of the positive and negative. Then, meaning has been given by connecting five colors with all the concepts to exist in all things of universe. Color to be seen in dress and its ornaments is involving symbolical meaning and thought nature by authority or power. And, class was expressed by implying the moral view of period and the life philosophy etc. Fourth, as for the method of pattern dyeing which started to appear since the period of three states, there are Chewhi dyeing to draw with brush, printing dyeing to imprint dyestuffs on cloth after engraving pattern on wooden board, and Hil technique to express by covering resisting material on pattern part or binding it. Textile that pattern was dyed with resisting dyeing method was called as Hil in our country, Japan and China. And, this technique was used for the first time in India and Southeast Asia. As for the kinds of ancient Hil dyeing, there are Kyo Hil, Hyup Hil, and Nap Hil. Kyo Hil means dyeing after binding with thread or string. Then, it means to handle resisting dyeing against the permeation of dyestuffs on the part after tying pattern part of textile with thread or sewing and pulling. And, Hyup Hil means the technique to dye by making the fretwork of same pattern on 2 boards and then folding cloth and inserting it between them and fixing cloth, so that it may not move and then injecting dyeing liquid into pattern part that fretwork was made or putting in dyeing liquid. Nap Hil means the technique that resisting dyeing was made primarily after applying lead or resisting material on surface with the same method as present lead dyeing with the principle to remove lead after drawing pattern with lead and dyeing. Fifth, as for Kyo Hil, history is longest out of Hil techniques. Then, as it is being performed in every place of world, names are diverse. And, it is called as dyeing with uncolored spots, Kyobang dyeing, and Kyo dyeing etc. in our country. In most countries to use English, it is called as tie and dye. And, in Europe including Indonesia, it is being expressed as plangi. As for dyeing with uncolored spots, pattern was expressed by deve-loping diversely with binding, stitching, folding and clamping etc. Binding is technique to make pattern by making dyeing liquid not permeate after binding the center of cloth to try to dye with round shape, square or lozenge. Stitching is to make resisting dyeing about the part that sewing was made. Then, it means to make the pattern of diverse light and shade by making dip-dyeing in dyeing liquid after designing straight line or pattern that oneself wants and sewing with strong thread and pulling until crease appears as cloth is stuck mutually. Folding is the technique to produce diverse effects in accordance with the direction that cloth is folded and the folding method as the method to dye after folding and fixing cloth. Clamping method means dyeing technique that dyestuffs is not permeated to fixed part by fixing textile between wood board or sticks after fold]ing textile. Out of traditional Hil technique, dyeing with uncolored spots is technique to show pattern by binding, stitching or clamping cloth on the part to try to express. Then, it has been used universally at various places in the world in the earlist period. And, diverse expression methods on surface such as crease, wrinkle and unevenness etc. are being expanded by being applied with various techniques or omitting dyeing course and maximizing steam-handling-course. It is being utilized most with diverse expression methods and subdivided techniques in interior and short piece etc. as well as modern fashion in comparison with other 2 kinds of Hil techniques. Hyup Hil is the most and complex work out of traditional Hil techniques. Then, relics were discovered in only our country, India, and Southeast Asia. And, recently, only at Onjoo in China, Hyup Hil technique is reproduced and succeeded. Now, it is being used by developing with method to dye by folding cloth twofold and inserting between 2 wood boards, that is, board-binding or Panche dyeing and pattern technique such as sealing dyeing to be present block printing to stamp dyestuffs after sculpturing wood. But, traditional method is failing to be maintained as it is. Nap Hil is to remove lead after making pattern with lead and dyeing. then, the principle is same as lead dyeing which is being used now. But, there is difference in the method to make pattern. In ancient times, pressing technique to use wood was used. After that, it has been developed with metal frame to be tjap made with copper and metal. Now, Nap Hil is referred to as batik. And, due to the complexity and difficulty of dyeing course, it is being reproduced as simple sealing edge. As it is possible to express pattern with diverse sizes and it can be utilized freely on dress and its ornaments or technology product with abstract pattern, it is expected that more diverse application will be possible in modern fashion. The meaning of this study is in trying to develop the textile design of modern sense as well as the expression of image to be intimate to nature which is peculiar to our race by putting to practical use, so that everybody may contact easily through developing diverse commodities to use natural dyeing widely. In addition, developing by harmonizing Hil technique of our country with modern printing technique and design commodity will be able to succeed to the vein of tradition which is being forgotten and create the dyeing culture of Korean pattern of true meaning newly.